The wild rover
The title of the post is the name of a song baby the group, The Dubliners. Everything I’ve done this year has led up to this moment. As I write this, I’m waiting for my flight home to New York from Shannon, Ireland. And what a tour of Ireland it has been!
This week took quite a long road to get here. The first inkling of this trip began in 1998. I saw a tourism Ireland commercial with The Cranberries “Dreams” playing in the background. The images of the beautiful country stirred my curiosity. In time, I would discover the works of Mr.James Joyce, particularly “Dubliners” and “Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man” and knew I wanted to visit Ireland. I also began to listen heavily to U2, The Pogues, Thin Lizzy to further my love of Ireland.
I had come up with a plan to visit as much of one continent as possible. Thanks to Rick Steves Europe, Europe became the continent of choice. My first trip was to Paris & London in 2012. For all of tribulations of that week, I enjoyed every minute of it. It would be three years before I would cross the Atlantic again. In November 2015, I would take my first escorted tour to Spain. I loved it so much I didn’t want to leave. The following October, I would return as I missed Barcelona the first time. If not for that, I would’ve taken the trip to Ireland already.
About a week after returning from San Francisco in January, I made the booking for Ireland. The tour would start in Dublin, and stop in Waterford, Killarney and Limerick before flying home from Shannon. In keeping with the pattern, I moved the trip to the week of October 7th, two weeks earlier than last year. The months rolled by, until the 7th finally arrived.
Late in the day, I would make my way to JFK’s terminal 5 to catch my flight to Dublin with Aer Lingus. I breathed a sigh of relief getting my boarding pass and getting past security. It was no longer a dream but a reality. At 8:50pm, flight 108 took off into the night sky bound for Dublin, Ireland. The flight would arrive twelve hours later at terminal 2 of Dublin airport. Once we emerged from the suburbs of the city, the transfer would make it to its destination, the Jurys Inn Christchurch.
Upon entering the hotel, I would get the first glimpse of our tour manager, a kind, silver haired woman named Alaco. I didn’t have a plan for thee Dublin leg of the trip, other than the Guinness Storehouse. So, I was given a map and a few ideas for sightseeing. My first stop was the cathedral of Ireland aka St.Patrick’s cathedral. For the fact that it’s the major church of the country, it sits in peaceful parkland not far from our hotel my next stop was the national gallery of Ireland but I failed to realize that Dublin is a walkable city. Along the way, I made it to the Irish Whiskey Museum for a tasting. I would eventually make it to the gallery before it closed. I made it back a little after 4pm as the welcome drink was at 5pm. I was exhausted from all the movement but meeting everyone that evening with the tour about to start was worth it.
Monday morning, we were loaded onto the coach for the city tour of Dublin. The tour covered most of the city, from the GPO where the Easter 1916 uprising began, to the port of Dublin, crossing both sides of the Liffey. The last stop was Trinity College, home of the famed Book of Kells. The book is a copy of the four gospels found on the Scottish island of Iona by monks. I felt as if I was back in school as the tourists intermingled with the students on campus. We had the rest of the afternoon at leisure and that meant one thing, the Guinness storehouse. Seven floors that would show you the entire brewing process, culminating in a visit to the Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Upon arrival, you get a free pint of Guinness and a spectacular view of Dublin. And on top of that, u2’s “With or Without You” welcomed me in, almost as if I entered heaven. As day turned to night, I was concerned with one thing, watching the Wales vs Ireland game. I ended up watching the game at the Bull & Castle bar across from our hotel. The tension could be cut with a knife as Ireland needed to win and at 57 minutes, Ireland scored with the bar going crazy and it turned into a party at the final whistle. That’s how you end a stay in the capital city.
Tuesday morning, it was our first moving day. We were on the move to Waterford. But first, we stopped in the medieval city of Kilkenny. The city is a charming place, anchored by the castle. It also happens to be where the beer Smithwicks is brewed. Three hours later, we would arrive in Waterford and visit the Waterford Crystal showroom. The crystal is used for the NYE ball drop in Times Square, it was nice to see where it comes from. This is the type of place I’d be warned off of as a kid due to the breakables. As the wind grew fiercer, we explored Waterford’s past as the oldest city in Ireland with our guide for the walking tour, Deccan. That night we had our first dinner together in the hotel restaurant. The four flights of stairs due to a narrow elevator were needed to burn off dinner.
Waterford was the shortest stop on our trip. The next day, we left on our way to Killarney. But first, we stopped in Blarney to visit the castle. The weather that morning had gotten progressively worse until we passed through the city of Cork. At that moment, the sun and blue skies appeared for the first time all week. Blarney castle is famous for the Blarney Stone. Legend has it that if you kiss the stone, you get the “gift of gab”, the ability to talk yourself out of any situation aka the gift of eloquence. To kiss the stone, it’s a narrow 118 step walk up to the top of the castle. Once there, you lay out flat, hold onto the bars and lift yourself up to kiss the stone. I felt so relieved to see the view of the castle on the walk down. About 4:30pm, our bus made it to Killarney. But not before getting a sales pitch from a sister hotel for their show, Gaelic Roots. It worked on me as I joined several of my group at the show later at night. It was a full house for a lovely and spirited evening of Irish music, song and dance.
Thursday morning would see us take a scenic drive. But it wasn’t just any old scenic drive, it was the Ring of Kerry. The ring is conposed of 179 miles of the southwestern peninsula of Ireland. Alaco had mentioned that she had a surprise for us, and it came in the form of Irish coffee or Whiskey or a soda at the Red Fox Inn. The weather worked out perfectly as the sun and autumnal colors completed the vast stretches of grass and made the Dingle Peninsula come to life. The weather would begin to go downhill at the end of the ride as we arrived back to the hotel in a driving rainstorm. Later that day, I went on the first optional, a jaunting car ride. These are similar to the carriage rides in Central Park, except this ride covered part of Killarney national park in addition to the city. That night, I was searching for dinner after buying a battery charger for my camera as I left mine home. I happened to find the Celtic Whiskey Bar and Larder across the street. By chance I arrived right on time for the 6:15pm masterclass and tasting. The last whiskey tasted was by far the strongest, so I stayed for dinner as I was laywaid by it. I walked around town for a bit to minimize the hangover.
Friday was the last moving day of the week. By days end, we would arrive in country Limerick. But first, we would visit Bunratty Castle &:Folk Park. The venue would showcase the castle and the various houses lived in during the year, 1425.A guided tour led you up to the front of the castle as it then could be explored independently. Upon making it to our hotel outside the city of Limerick after a city tour, it was time for the main event of the night. We would spend the evening at a medieval banquet inside Knappogue Castle. The mead, a honeyed yet strong wine began to flow freely as out presence was requested by the kings of Ulster, Leinster, Munster and Connaught. A three course, three hour extravaganza of song and step dancing would leave the house rocking and rolling. In a reminder to never break the rules of gallantry, one of our own was caught looking at another woman. The punishment you might ask, singing “Jingle Bells” in front of everyone with the table rovusug backing vocals. A grand time was had by all.
The last full day in Ireland brought us to an anticipated place, the Cliffs of Moher. On a clear day, you can see forever from there. But on this day, the rain and fog rolled in. The view wasn’t as dramatic, but I was able to enjoy the majesty of the cliffs nonetheless. Our next stop would bring us to a farm for tea and scones. I learned a lot more about sheep than I ever thought possible. But after the rains and lashing winds, that cup of tea hit the spot. Next, it would be onto our final spot, the city of Galway. It would be a short trip through the city but I would get the gist of the city’s winding streets, filled with people and buskers. I found this band, Key West performing in the steets in my walk and linked them enough to buy their double album, Joyland/Fairground. The first sign that the trip was over was that we had to say goodbye to our driver Tony upon arriving back to the hotel.
But before closing the book on Ireland, one more chapter had to be written. Later on Saturday evening, it was the farewell dinner at Porter’s restaurant. All of us gathered for a three course meal. As the night wore on, I caught wind of a plan to raise a toast to our tour manager, Alaco for the superhuman job she did this week. One of the families aboard, the Anderson’s from Providence, RI had a ten year old son, Dylan who planned to say it but he got nervous. I clinked my glass of white wine and toasted to Alaco, to everyone in the room and to Ireland itself. Only one thing left to do, get on the flight home. This morning, two vans carrying 22 of us caravaned to Shannon Airport. We stuck together through security, the run to the Duty Free store and our respective gates. As everyone else had an earlier flight than I, I bid my goodbye’s and made my way to the gate to catch my Aer Lingus flight that I’m currently on, with a bottle of The Irishman whiskey that I tasted and liked back in Dublin. I’ll be back home in NYC this afternoon. And with that, Ireland is in the history books.
I enjoyed every minute of my trip to Ireland over these nine days. The people exhibit a kindness and friendliness that’s hard to come by in this madcap world. The scenery is as awe inspiring as all the books make it out to be. Am I disappointed that after eight months wait that the week went quickly, surely.it’ll be tough to shake the feeling of life not being as good as this week is. But I carry fond memories of a beautiful country traveled with great people. That will get me through the inevitable let down to come this week.
I’d be remiss if I didn’t give all the credit to our tour manager Alaco and our driver for the week, Tony. If not for their professionalism, this week wouldn’t have flowed so seamlessly. I wish them both safe travels and wish Alaco a great final tour of the season and a well deserved rest after it’s over. I also want to thank the rest of the group for welcoming me with open arms as the only single traveler. Its nice not to feel alone in the world, at least for this week. I will miss everyone as I wish all of you a safe journey home, wherever you may roam. Will we meet again, don’t know where or when but I hope it’ll be on some sunny day.
It won’t be long before my next trip.my sister and I are slated to take a Caribbean cruise the week of December 10th. But it looks like that might be jeopardy due to hurricanes Ivan & Maria causing damage at every port on the itinerary. As of now, the trip is on. Taking a look into my crystal ball, I foresee a return to the Iberian peninsula at this time next year. I hope this prediction comes true. I’m ready, ready for what’s next. Until next time, good night and joy be with you all!
